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Home / IAS Preparation / Ocean Waves

Ocean Waves: Causes, Types & Features of Sea Waves for UPSC

Last Updated on Mar 23, 2025
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Ocean waves refer to the rhythmic disturbances that occur on the surface of large bodies of water, such as oceans and seas. These are caused by the interaction of wind with the water surface. These waves propagate through the water, carrying energy and exhibiting various characteristics. This includes wave height, wavelength, wave period, and wave frequency. Ocean waves play a crucial role in coastal processes, marine ecosystems, and weather patterns, and their measurement and study contribute to understanding climate dynamics, oceanography, and the overall functioning of the Earth's hydrosphere.

Read this article on Ocean Waves to know more about wave movements in the ocean, the concept of tides, currents, and more. Check out the UPSC Exam details here for better preparation.

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GS Paper

General Studies Paper I

Topics for UPSC Prelims

Tides, Tsunamis, Marine Geology.

Topics for UPSC Mains

Impact of Ocean Waves on Coastal Erosion, Tsunamis and Their Devastating Effects on Coastal Regions

What are Sea Waves or Ocean Waves?

The waves of the ocean are generated by the action of wind blowing over the ocean. The size of the ocean waves is a function of both the uninterrupted length of open water where the wind blows and the strength of the wind, that is the storm size. 

In subjects like physics, mathematics, and related fields, a wave is said to be a propagating dynamic disturbance which generally changes from equilibrium of one or more quantities.

These quantities are sometimes described by a wave equation. It is assumed that the waves can be periodic, in which case those quantities repeatedly oscillate about an equilibrium that is the resting value at some frequency. When the whole waveform moves in a single direction it is said to be a traveling wave. By contrast there is a pair of superimposed periodic waves which are traveling in opposite directions that make standing waves. In a standing wave the vibrations amplitude has nulls at some positions where the wave amplitude appears smaller or we can say even zero.

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How are Ocean Waves Formed?

Ocean waves are primarily formed by the interaction of wind with the water surface. Wind blows across the water, transferring energy to the surface and causing ripples to form. As wind speed increases, the ripples grow in size and become waves. The size and energy of waves are influenced by factors such as wind speed, duration, and fetch (the distance over which the wind blows). Fetch plays a crucial role in wave formation, as waves can travel great distances before reaching shore. Waves continue to propagate across the ocean until they encounter the coastline or other obstacles.

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How are waves caused?

The primary cause of ocean waves is the interaction between wind and the water surface. The energy from wind is transferred to the water, leading to wave formation. Tidal forces caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun can also contribute to wave generation, especially in areas with large tidal ranges. Ocean currents flowing against the wind can enhance wave formation and affect their characteristics. Underwater features such as reefs, shoals, and ridges can cause waves to break or refract, altering their behavior.

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Different Types of Ocean Waves

The following are some of the major types of ocean waves:

  • Wind Waves: Generated by local wind conditions and are the most common type of ocean waves.
  • Swell Waves: Long-period waves that have traveled over long distances and are often generated by storms in remote areas.
  • Seiche Waves: These are standing waves that occur in enclosed or partially enclosed bodies of water due to factors like atmospheric pressure changes and seismic activity.
  • Rogue Waves: Exceptionally large and unpredictable waves that can occur in open ocean areas, often with devastating consequences.
  • Tsunami Waves: Seismic sea waves caused by underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides. Tsunamis can travel across entire ocean basins and have destructive power when they reach shore.

Know more about Salinity of Ocean Water here.

Characteristics of Ocean Waves

Some of the features made by sea waves include parameters such as wave height (the vertical distance between the crest and trough), wave period (the time interval between successive crests), wavelength (the horizontal distance between successive crests), and wave speed.

  • Wave Height: The vertical distance between the crest (top) and trough (bottom) of a wave.
  • Wavelength: The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs.
  • Wave Period: The time it takes for a wave crest to pass a fixed point.
  • Wave Frequency: The number of waves passing a point per unit of time.
  • Amplitude: The maximum displacement of water particles from their undisturbed position.
  • Velocity: The speed at which a wave propagates through the water.
  • Energy: Waves carry energy as they move and can transfer it over long distances.

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Measurement of Ocean Waves

Measurement of ocean waves involves quantifying their height, period, and wavelength using instruments like wave buoys and radar.

  • Wave Buoys: These floating devices are equipped with sensors to measure parameters like wave height, period, and direction. They transmit data in real-time and provide valuable information for weather forecasting and research.
  • Wave Rider Buoys: These buoys are designed to be more responsive to wave motion and provide more accurate wave measurements, particularly for surf zone studies.
  • Coastal Wave Gauges: Installed along the coastline, these gauges use pressure sensors or laser technology to measure wave characteristics close to shore.
  • Satellite Altimetry: Satellites equipped with radar altimeters measure sea surface height. These can be used to estimate wave heights and study large-scale wave patterns over the open ocean.

Key Takeaways for UPSC Aspirants

  • Types: Wind-generated waves, tsunamis, and tidal waves.
  • Wind-generated waves: These are forms of waves which are created by the transfer of energy from the wind onto the surface.
  • Tsunamis: These are generally those occurring because of underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and landslides.
  • Tidal Waves: These have their origin in gravitational pull between the moon and sun.

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Ocean Waves UPSC FAQs

In geography, ocean waves refer to the rhythmic disturbances on the surface of large bodies of water. These are caused by the interaction of wind with the water surface.

Dangerous ocean waves can be formed in various regions, but some notorious areas include the North Atlantic Ocean and areas prone to tropical cyclones, such as the Pacific Ocean's typhoon belt and the Indian Ocean's cyclone-prone regions.

The four types of ocean waves are wind waves, swell waves, seiche waves, and tsunami waves.

The four characteristics of ocean waves are wave height, wavelength, wave period, and wave frequency.

The Southern Ocean, also known as the Antarctic Ocean, is known for having some of the highest waves in the world due to its strong winds and vast fetch.

Waves are the rhythmic movement of water caused by wind, transferring energy across the surface. Tides are the regular rise and fall of ocean water levels caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun. Currents are continuous, directed movements of seawater, often driven by wind, water temperature, and salinity differences.
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